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Category: Life

Sunday - July 7th, 2007

The day started with my friend Will waking me up at the crack of dawn. He said "Bro there's a sick break right now, grab your board and suit, and let's head out!", keep in mind it was 5:30 in the morning and I had a long night of reading. But as always, the waves were calling me and dragging me out of my bed. 


When we got to the spot, the other regulars were starting to loosen up before their sesh. We had gotten there a bit late but it was no biggy, I could tell the set would last. I started to put my wetsuit on, but the zipper broke. Of course, it had to break today. One of the few days I had woken up at 5:30 and was in a groggy mood. Once I fixed my zipper, it was just me and the water.


Getting into the water made my day a whole lot better, the rest of the day was a blur from then on out but I'm pretty sure I got some food after the waves died out, and then I honestly don't remember what happened after as I was so exhausted from the early morning. 


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