Hello buddies. This is my blog where I drop all of my DIYs and projects. I do want it to double as a portfolio so I'll at least keep it tidy. I'm going to try and format them as how-tos so they could potentially give you inspiration. Be warned my methods are at times cheap and nasty. Got a problem? Go read a legitimate tutorial. I just want to spread the fun of this stuff, and the fun comes from ignoring the rules (when safe). Sure, use outdoor paint on your fabric but don't put a hand sewing needle in a machine. You get it. The projects will appear as they're done... or started. Don't know how to organize this stuff.
About Me
I don't really attach myself to any particular subculture, but I very much enjoy learning about them. My personal style is the way that it is because it makes me happy. Over time I learned that is the thing that should be most important to me, not the kind of look I'm going to get from the school kids. I put on the spikes and chains not because I am looking for a fight, but because they give me something to look at in the mirror. You might think I have thoughts in my head but I do not! I'm beating around the bush. I'll start talking crafts now.
1. Patches
These are, like, one of the first things you think of when you hear DIY, right? Or close. I can't read your mind. They're one of the easiest ways to decorate a piece of clothing and showcase your thoughts or views. They're the first thing I started making when I got into DIY. We're going to go through a few different ways we can make them.
What Can I Use? (From Least to Most High-End):
A pencil: You should go for the type that contrasts with your fabric. If it's a lighter color use a graphite pencil.I would go for the lighter one, HB. If it's a darker fabric you should use a white pencil. If you're a sweat use a dressmaker's pencil or the chalk stuff. Just kidding, everyone is equal and no one is a sweat. Only use this for sketching or tracing. I think you know that. Use it for anything more and you'll be seriously disappointed.
->I'm sure you don't need suggestions for obtaining a pencil. Steal one from school or something. Dressmaker's pencils and chalk come from the craft store. Just clarifying, our craft stores cover painting, hardware, sewing and random decor. Just in case it's different for you.
Ball-Point Pens: If you're really in a bind these do work. Anything that can make a mark on fabric works. I've never actually made a patch with only ballpoint pen but I have traced a design with them to paint over. Their accuracy is good, they have fine points and lots of colors. I've had enough of these explode in the wash to know that they do stain. Although, without any barrier from the elements it WILL bleed. If you're into that look then experiment your heart out.
-> Same with pens, man. Just steal one from the guy next to you. They're so common that you can get them from the supermarket. Just go outside
Posca Markers: These are water-based paint pens. They have a variety of sizes from fine point to whatever the big one is. I find the ink is a bit too watery a lot of the time and I have to do a few coats for the design to pop as much as I want. These are good for tracing out designs if the marks are going to end up covered. Get a white one and it's like a dressmaker's pencil... but permanent. I use these a lot and they actually don't fade so quickly. I don't know about putting it through the wash though.
-> Look for paint markers instead of posca pens specifically. Poscas are just the brand I use. There's probably better ones out there for less money. Places to check out are the dollar store, craft stores and office supply/stationery stores.
Acrylic Paint: I don't know if it means anything but I go for one labelled "all-purpose". It's probably just a suggestion and they mean it's dishwasher safe. Now I'm confusing you, sorry. This stuff has pretty good coverage, just be careful how thick you lay it on. Like a lot of things, multiple coats over time is more effective than one thick coat caked on at once. Too thick and your patch will be stiff and the paint will crack easier. I probably should have said this at the start but you'll need to touch this up over time because if you put it through the wash a lot it'll fade quick. I guess it's good if you like the distressed look.
-> The craft store, limited variety at the stationery store, same with the dollar store. Don't think it makes a big difference
Fabric Paint: What sets this apart from acrylic paint is it's actually made for fabric i.e. it won't fade as quickly. Keep in mind it acts the same as the previous in terms of laying it on too thick. It also comes in a spray form which is good for stencils. Be careful what type you buy though. Opaque is the type for this stuff. Do not get puff. Please. Unless you know exactly how puff turns out and you want that, do. Not. Get. Puff.
-> Just the craft store. This is getting into specialty stuff.
Embroidery Floss: Okay, woah. Whole different can of worms. This is pretty foolproof but mind that it will take 100 times longer. Imagine tracing but you can only draw a few millimeters per stroke and those strokes are slow as hell. it won't fade though!
-> The craft store and the dollar store!
How Do I Make Them?!
I've managed to make a pretty short process for patches. Now to put it in tutorial form!
1. Of course, pick a design. Before you touch any materials:
-> Consider what you can achieve with your materials. For example, don't try and do something with more colors than you have on hand. Also don't pick anything too detailed if you don't have fine enough pens or paintbrushes or whatever. You're going to make the process hell.
-> For my method in particular, even if you do have fine tips, make sure it can be seen through your fabric. We're going to be using a lightbox for this. You don't need to have to see every detail, but the basic outlines. You can copy the details with a reference.
-> Put the stretch fabric down. I mean, if it's all you have it's definitely possible. Just... extremely fiddly. I started out using material from a T-Shirt. God, let me tell you. It stretches in all directions so you can't even hold it down too hard or your design will be warped, and it rolls too. Sewing it down let alone pinning it will be an adventure for you. Even then you've got to make sure it's not stretched, it will lie to your face. "Yes yes! I am very much flat! No bunching up here!"
2. Get your tracing setup ready
You'll need a lightbox or equivalent. You might have used these for something else before.Feel free to skip over this if you have. It sounds like a big thing but there are smaller, compact ones getting around these days. Even if you don't have one, like me, there's ways to replicate one.
-> With A Phone: There's a lot of apps out there that replicate the functions of a lightbox. In particular I use this one. Not sponsored or anything. That means I can tell you the upsides AND downsides. As well as acting as a lightbox you can upload a picture into here to trace directly off your screen and there's a button that locks the screen in place. What I don't like is that I keep bumping this button. It stops the image from moving but it doesn't stop the drop down menu from coming down. Also, my phone is huge, so if yours isn't you might have better luck with a computer screen.
-> With A Laptop: I don't think you could do this on a monitor without cramping up. Find a way to make your whole screen white, like a picture of nothing. Since there isn't a touch screen to worry about it's easier. You can also just pull up the design on screen and blow it up as big as you need it. Even if you do have a touchscreen there is a way to disable it. After that you should place the screen in a way it's flat on a surface so it's comfortable to lean on. If your hinges don't reach 180 degrees this might be a little dangerous for you. This way is better if you have a bigger design.
-> With A Window: I know this probably won't be used by anyone but DIY is all about doing what you can with what you have. Some people haven't got the stuff for this and that's when you go to the next best thing. Find a well-lit window preferably facing the sun for more light.
Note: Since these are some pretty expensive gadgets you want to protect them, don't you? Before you grab your material, cover your screen in a layer of cling wrap. Pull it tight enough for it to sit on your screen flat. In other words get rid of any creases or folds because that'll give you lumps in your design.
If your design is on a page rather than screen, it should go underneath your protective layer. A bit of scotch tape will do to keep it in place. It shouldn't leave anything behind and if it does, you can rub it off.
3. Now you can get out materials!
Now that you're all set up, you can get your material and measure out how much you'll need. If you want an exact size or shape, place it over your lightbox and sketch out the corners or important outlines so you know where to cut. Make sure you don't make any marks that you can't cover up, unless you want it like that. Now you can cut out your material following your guides.
If it's already cut then ignore that, LOL.
Get your bit of fabric and line it up to where you want it. Personally my hand is not steady in the slightest so I put down a bit of tape to stop it from sliding around. Sometimes the tape overlaps with the design, so remember to fill in those spots after you remove it.
One more thing before you start, gather everything you'll need and keep it close. For example, pencil and eraser. You different colored pens. Who knows. It's better if you have less interruptions rummaging for this stuff.
4. Get tracing!!!
I start this process with pencil or white posca depending on the color I'm dealing with. With pencil I go for as much detail as I can before moving on, but with posca I go for basic outlines because my marker is a little wide and I constantly need to check it's working properly.
Not a lot to say here, it's self explanatory. I can try and think of a few tips, though.
-> Start with the defining lines such as outlines and sections. This way you have the general image already and there's less opportunity to stuff up proportions and stuff. After that you can start filling in details. Honestly, if you trust your skills enough you don't really need to trace more than outlines. I do the rest with the image sitting beside my drawing space.
-> Careful with alcohol markers. If you hold these down for too long they'll bleed outwards, even fine liners. If you want thin lines then you should be putting little to no weight in your strokes.
-> Reminder about the paint. Thin coats, not thick. Prioritize getting the whole design on the material before you think about trying to fix it up. It's a waiting game.
5. Design Time
This is where you get out paints or whatever you've chosen for the final product. There's not much to explain. Use your chosen material to replicate your image! Wow. Wild. Make sure you give it good time to dry when you're done.
Bonus: After my paint dries I like to coat my fabric in fabric glue. This dries hard and forms a layer between my design and everything else in the world. Consider it varnish. It goes on with a paint brush just like paint. No one is forcing you to do this but it's good. I started doing this instead of just parting with the sharpie.
Fabrics
For fabric, I prefer to recycle my materials. I don't have enough wisdom to give you a full fabric guide but I'll share what I've found through trial and error. I swear I'll come back to this section.
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