crash course: gyaruo 101

hi everyone~! welcome back~!

recently, ive been getting a lot of interest in the male/masculine counterpart to gyaru: gyaruo!

unlike gyaru, the information on gyaruo can be hard to come by, especially on the english-speaking side of the internet. but never fear! ive worked my magic (i.e. did a stupid amount of research) and have compiled a quick crash course for all of you interested in gyaruo!

im going to try my best to make this as comprehensive as possible, so i'll probably pop in and add stuff every so often. i want this to be more of a one stop shop blog, so it can be a bit more convenient for all of my gyaruo friends!

a few quite notes before we begin: just like gyaru, one does not have to identify as male/be a cis male to be a gyaruo. in the modern sense of the term, gyaruo pertains to those who do not consider themselves gyaru in the feminine sense. so, anyone regardless of gender identity, can be gyaruo. for the history portion of the blog, however, i will be referring to men nearly exclusively as it was a predominantly cis male subculture during its peak. but rest assured, my choice of language is not meant to exclude anyone!

now, lets start~!

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HISTORY & GENERAL INFO

the term gyaruo (ギャル男, ギャルオ), sometimes written as gyaru-o, is, of course, an offshoot of the term gyaru. the term can be shortened to guy, just as gyaru can be shortened to gal.

the style got its start at the same time as gyaru, as the aspects of tanning and bleaching/dyeing hair became very mainstream, meaning everyone (including people that did not consider themselves explicitly gyaru) was doing it. this naturally extended to men, and certain men began to take it a step further and join their female counterparts. men who engaged in the subculture began to be known as gyaru otoko, or gal men, and with that, gyaruo was born!

gyaruo is interesting in terms of how masculinity is presented. the style in undoubtedly masculine, almost stereotypically so in some aspects, with special emphasis on manliness and proving ones manliness, looking good to attract female attention (many guys became gyaruo to be popular with women in the first place), exercise and working out, and satisfying sexual appetites. however, the style is also almost (unfairly) stereotypically feminine since such great pride is taken in ones appearance. taking care of ones hair, outfit, tanning, materialism, and in some cases, using makeup and nail polish are important for guys. when looking at gyaruo from the traditionally masculine and misogynistic lens, guys are considered "girly", despite the fact that guys enjoy stereotypically masculine pleasures as well. like gyaru defies traditional beauty standards, gyaruo is meant to go against traditional standards of masculinity. the heart of the style lies in rebellion.

gyaruo are very similar to their gyaru counterparts. they love furs and animal prints, layering accessories (belts, jewelry/piercings, sunglasses, hats, etc), tight clothing, ripped/distressed styles, and anything bold.

in appearance, a gyaruo is muscular but not overly built. the idea is to remain slender enough for the tight clothing seen in many substyles, but of course, anyone of any body-type can be gyaruo. sujimori is important for the gyaruo silhouette, and depending on the substyle, it can take on either a more host club-like or v-kei shape. in general, though, the hair can be medium-long (some guys use extensions) and in a variety of colors. the general cut has lots of layers and is almost wolfy, with heavy fringe/bangs, spiky, or even slicked back. it is not uncommon to see guys with facial hair. modernly, tanning is not required for gyaruo, but it does help sell the look and many guys choose to tan. tans can range anywhere from medium to dark, depending on the substyle. some guys can wear make if they choose, as well as nail polish. depending on the substyle, gyaruo draws many parallels with host fashion, yankii/teamer/ora ora kei aesthetics, v-kei/rock/goth styles, as well as ganguro/(ya)manba and western fashion. as a whole, the goal is to look sexy.

popular gyaruo magazines are men's egg, men's egg bitter (aimed at gyaruo 23+), men's egg youth, men's knuckle, men's spider, soul japan, CHOKI CHOKI (more geared toward Salon Kei), and more. many of these publications had gyaru counterparts as well, such as the well-known egg magazine and soul sister.

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SUBSTYLES

many gyaruo substlyes are simply masculine versions of gyaru substyles, so to save some time, i will direct you back to my gyaru substyles blog when necessary. the main focus will be on the styles exclusive to gyaruo. something else of note is that some of the substyles go more in depth than others, because i was unable to find a lot of information about them. alas, there just isnt the wealth of information that gyaru has when it comes to gyaruo. i'll try to remedy this by including photos!

Kogyaruo

not a substyle per say, but rather an age-range/age identifier for high school aged gyaruo. for more information, please check out my substyles blog.

Adult

Adult is one of the gyaruo styles most similar to host fashion. the idea is simple style for maximum impact. leather, fur, denim, and animal prints are popular fabrics/textures. tank tops, button ups/collared shirts, fur-lined jackets, vests, coats, blazers, and jeans are popular clothing choices. jewelry (cross necklaces, pendants, rings), sunglasses, and belts/straps are popular accessories. leather/combat/fur-lined boots are common footwear.

Amekaji

for more information, please check out my substyles blog.

Rokku

for more information, please check out my substyles blog.

Datewaru

"coined by Men's Knuckle, datewaru refers to their idea of 'flashy bad boy' fashion. It's edgier than onii-kei and more flamboyant than oraora. A leather jacket paired with distressed jeans are often a must, bonus points if the jacket has some sort of fur trim, animal print, or camo. More is more in datewaru, so stacking accessories and textures is important. Silver jewelry, chains, sunglasses, bandanas are all very common. Black with white/grey accents is the most common color but reds, military greens, and cheetah print tawny also seen. Popular brands include Xfrm, FUGA, LAGUST, WILD PARTY, CIVARIZE, and MIDAS, as well as jewelry brands like Chrome Hearts, Justin Davis, Diavlo, etc. Teased or looser sujimori hair is commonly worn and tanning is common but not necessary. Datewaru has also kind of become a sort of meme because of the corny edgelord 'catchphrases' that often accompany the street snaps in Men's Knuckle (often without the actual wearer's knowledge) such as 'There's only one truth, all men should be dyed black', 'Elegance and eroticism blending together in slumber', 'The password is Whitey Embanence' (no I don't know what that last one means)." 

[i was unable to find good information about Datewaru anywhere besides this reddit post, i have taken the authors description and inserted it here. another link to the post can be found in the resources section. for future reference, anything not written by me will be in quotes to avoid plagiarizing anothers hard work.]

V-hosu/V-host Kei

"coined by Men's Spider (kind of a sister magazine to Men's Knuckle, my personal favorite gyaruo magazine), v-host kei is a combination of host-kei fashion and the rock styles worn by visual-kei bandomen. The magazine featured both hosts, vkei bandomen, and those who work as both such as Sena from the Raid. A lot of hosts admired and emulated visual-kei bandomen during this time and the gyaruo that admired these hosts also followed suit. Because they're related, v-hosu and datewaru look similar to those who are unfamiliar. V-hosu is distinct as it has less tough/grungy elements than datewaru, having more of the neater atmosphere of a host. It has a slightly more formal and luxurious feel, dress shirts, blazers, coats, ties, and even full fur jackets are common. Though edgy elements are still retained as leather jackets are also common, often with fur trim, there's also a preference for drapey fabrics rather than the stiff denims of datewaru. Animal print is sometimes used, most often white leopard or tiger prints. Accessories include silver jewelry, skinny scarves, and chokers. There's a wider variety of color options, with black and white, grey, red, bronze, and even pink accents being seen. Popular brands include Sixh. Six, Diavlo, Vice Fairy, GLAD NEWS, DeviL'n Bass, ALGONQUINS, SEANA, and Deorart. Neat, v-kei like sujimori hair is most common, often with bleached/dyed sections. Tanning is not as common and gyaruo who wear v-hosu kei tend to wear more makeup and exaggerated circle lenses than other gyaruo, with a key differentiator being their thinly trimmed eyebrows. One huge inspiration for v-hosu kei gyaruo was the vocalist Yasu of Janne Da Arc and Acid Black Cherry due to his high sex appeal and popularity with women. He was even popular enough to have a collaboration with Shibuya 109Men's (11th picture)."

[similarly to Datewaru, i also turned to this reddit post. i have taken the authors description and inserted it here.]

Derika/Deliccaa

"Comes from '(psyche)delic-er'. Peaking in 2005, it's described as a combination of onii-kei and hippie fashion worn by enjoyers of the psychedelic music scene. It incorporates a lot of 60's/70's and bohemian motifs, with bell bottom pants, loose tops, paisley, layered jewelry made out of turquoise, beads, bones/fangs, and feathers, snakeskin boots, artisan leather, etc. Popular brands include Sabgreed, Pink Liberta, VANQUISH GOLD, South Paradiso, LED RECHWE and others sold in Iriatsu's (shown in the street snap!) select shop WILD BLUE ANGEL. Because of how popular 'ethnic' motifs are in this style, locs and braids are sometimes worn."

[description comes from this reddit post. another link to the post can be found in the resources section.]

Ura-Shibu Kei/Kanji

"Kind of related to deliccaa, UraShibu-kei is considered a counterpart to UraHara-kei and refers to the psychedelic and trance music club scene that was prevalent in the 'backstreet' areas of Shibuya like Shinsencho and Nanpeidaicho. Deliccaa can be considered a subtype of UraShibu-kei but while deliccaa focuses on 70s motifs, general UraShibu-kei fashion is more like rave clubwear. I used two photos to show the two main silhouettes in UraShibu-kei: black and white clubwear with slogans printed on tight t shirts, muscle tees, and vests almost resembling oraora if not less edgy; and neon jerseys with psychedelic/trance-like graphics. Popular brands include Trip Travel, Shanit, and Torauma/Trauma (虎馬). the 'Kanji' naming in certain overseas sources might come from the fact that the Japanese Wikipedia page for gyaruo simply describes UraShibu-kei as the 'wearing kanji-printed clothes' fashion, probably due to the fact that many brands include graphics of 'trippy' philosophical double meaning kanji into their designs. Hindu and Buddhist motifs like mandalas are commonly used and hairstyles like locs are also sometimes worn."

[description comes from the same reddit post i used for Derika.]

Sentaa Guy

the masculine counterpart to ganguro/(ya)manba. for more information, please check out my substyles blog.

Onii Kei

Onii Kei is not exclusive to gyaruo, it can exist separately. the name translates to "big brother style", and it is the gyaruo version of Onee Gyaru. it combines Amekaji and Itakaji (Italian Causal) with a touch of rocker aesthetics to create a glamorous and sexy look. Onii kei clothing centers around brand clothing, and the styles usually are not over the top. they instead focus on high-end fashion, dark clothes, suits, low-necked tank tops, imported jeans, and pointed leather shoes. pieces with a more rugged vibe, like leather jackets, are also popular. accessories from designer brands are common (belts, waist pouches, watches, sunglasses, and more from designer brands). silver is also preferred. popular brands include Christian Audigier, Dolce & Gabbana, Ed Hardy, Louis Vuitton, Midas, and Vanquish.

Salon Kei

Salon Kei can also exist separately from gyaruo. it was started by men attending beauty school in japan, and the phenomenon was mostly started in hair salons in upscale tokyo neighborhoods such as omotesando or daikanyama. Salon Kei style leans more feminine, and is characterized by mixing low and high fashion brands, as well as second hand clothing finds, to create a unique, fashionable looks. detailed layering is commonly seen in Salon kei, especially shirts and cardigans. vintage pieces are very popular in this style, as well as designer/luxury items. skinny jeans are a common choice, as well as suit style jackets/blazers, and sometimes flannels. bags are popular accessories, especially larger tote bags, and hats, beanies, scarves (especially traditionally "feminine" scarves), belts, and sunglasses. leather designer shoes are popular. guys who wear the style take pride in having fashionable hairstyles to match their outfits, typically in more natural tones in all lengths and cuts. makeup is occasionally seen in Salon Kei, but it is very minimal, such as eyeliner and foundation for a natural look.

Biker

the Biker style is very, well, biker. leather is a staple, seen anywhere from jackets to boots. denim, graphic tees (think affliction style), and flannels are commonly seen. dark colors are essential. jewelry (necklaces, chains, rings), belts, studs are popular accessories/elements. leather/combat boots are popular footwear choices.

Surfer

the style i would must equate Surfer to is old school/paragal, in the sense that it focuses on a more low-key tropical/cali style (you can find more info about paragal in my gyaru 101 blog). bright colors and tropical prints (palm trees, hibiscus/plumeria patterns) are staples, as well as graphic tees/tank tops/baseball style shirts, long sleeve henleys, polos, and printed button up/collared shirts/hawaiian shirts. jorts, cargo shorts/pants (in either khaki or camouflage), jeans, patterned shorts, and basketball shorts are popular bottoms. its common to see sneakers and sandals for footwear, and shark tooth necklaces, hemp/braided necklaces/bracelets, chains, pendants, puka shells, and belts are popular accessories.

Military

despite its name, the Military style does not include cosplaying as a straight up soldier. its a bit like the Biker style with way more camouflage and natural/earth tones. camo cargo pants/army pants/tactical pants, jeans, army jackets, leather jackets, tank tops, t-shirts, and vests are commonly seen. chains, teeth/fang necklaces, belts, and sunglasses are popular accessories, as are combat/tactical boots.

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RESOURCES

this section will include gyaruo-specific resources. for more general resources, please check out my gyaru resource masterblog.

Japanese Fashion Wiki - x, x, x

just like i explained in my resource masterblog, the quality of fandom wikis is up for debate. some articles are better than others, but the resources/references are very good and very helpful for those wanting to do further reading. the first link leads to the article for gyaruo, the second leads to the Onii Kei article, and the third leads to the Salon Kei article.

Gyaruo | The Gyaru Wiki - x

there isnt a ton of information on the gyaru wiki for some reason, but it's alright for an extremely surface level explanation. there are also a couple of good photos.

Gyaru Wiki - x, x

the first link leads to the article for gyaruo, and the second leads to the Sentaa Guy article. like the gyaru wiki article, there isnt a ton of information but theres more than the gyaru wiki article has. there is also some good photos and resources/references.

Gal Man | Galture - x

if you dont speak japanese, you will need to use a translator for this but it is my favorite resource. theres a lot of good cultural context and general information about gyaruo, so i recommend it!

men's egg - the elements of style | An Eternal Thought in the Mind of Godzilla by Patrick Macias - x

this is by far not the most lovingly written gyaruo resource, as i dont believe the author is gyaruo, but it provides good visual aids for different gyaruo styles. take the information with a grain of salt, however.

Gyaruo Fashion Guide | IFS - x

you will also need a translator for this site, but its a good general resource for aspiring gyaruo.

Older/Lesser Known Gyaruo Substyles: Datewaru (1-5) and V-hosu/V-host Kei (6-10) | by u/banyureged on r/actualgyaru - x and [REPOST] Older/Lesser Known Gyaru (and Gyaruo) Substyles: Loco Girl, Derika/Deliccaa, UraShibu-kei | by u/banyureged on r/actualgyaru - x

these are the posts that provided some of the descriptions for the substyles, so very special thanks to them! theyre very knowledgable and they provide some great photos!

Between gyaru-o and sōshokukei danshi: body discourses in lifestyle magazines for young Japanese men by Ronald Saladin - x

to my core i am an academic, so i love including academic papers. it explores greater themes of japanese masculinity, and examines how two magazines that are beloved by gyaruo (CHOKI CHOKI and men's egg) portray and engage in masculinity. i 100% recommend checking this out if youre interested in cultural discussions.

Japanese Fashion Cultures: Dress and Gender in Contemporary Japan by Masafumi Monden - x

like the Ronald Saladin paper, this book also explores japanese masculinity, as well as gender presentation. if youre even slightly interested in j-fashion (doesnt have to be gyaru/gyaruo), i recommend giving this a read.

GalRevo - x

this is the BEST magazine archive known to man. i mentioned it in my resource masterblog, but unlike the FukYeahMen'sKnuckle blog i have listed below, no other site has such comprehensive archives of men's egg and soul japan. for all my friends who are fans of the edgier styles, the soul japan archive is a treasure trove.

the old egg magazine website - x

i also linked this in my resource masterblog, but its honestly a great resource. there are ways to access the men's egg and men's egg youth pages, which are basically required reading for gyaruo. im unsure if different versions of the page link to men's egg bitter or if it has even been archived, but since the pages are accessed via the wayback machine, i encourage you to look for yourself! 

FukYeahMen'sKnuckle | gyaruo magazine archive - x

this tumblr blog posts gyaruo magazine scans, from multiple different publications. although it hasnt been updated since 2016, theres still plenty of images to look through and get inspiration!

my gyaruo pinterest board - x

my board has over 200 pins and is frequently updated, so feel free to peruse to your hearts content!

Yukihide's Ameblo - x

this is the Ameblo of one of the most popular men's egg models! like i said in my masterblog, please be normal if you choose to view it. do not harass him or anyone else you might stumble upon. 

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WOOP WOOP!! we made it to the end!! i know i said forever ago that my blogs would gradually get shorter and less labor intensive to read, but i just have so much to say... still, even if this blog is a beast, i hope u enjoyed and were able to learn something! gyaruo is so painfully underrated, so i was so thrilled when i was asked to make a blog discussing it... to the kind reader, i hope this lived up to your expectations!! starting in a couple of days, i'll post a new bulletin for the topic vote, so please be on the lookout for it if youre interested!! since i post these blogs whenever i feel like it, i dont have a clear schedule outlined but the plan is to post a blog based on the vote, and then start a new round of voting a day or so afterwards. i hope this works out for everyone!! like always, feel free to comment whatever your little heart desires!! i try to read and answer all of them so if you have a question or a request, comment away! if youre a bit shy, feel free to send me an IM with any comments, concerns, or requests! and if you like, please check out my gyaru discord inquiry! thank you so much for reading and for supporting me!!

remember, shido-chan loves you~!

kiss kiss~ ☆⌒ヽ(*'､^*)chu